Hoshigarei

Stepping into the newly relocated 鮨しゅんじ (Sushi Shunji), a tasteful display of white Phalaenopsis orchids from Takashi Saito marked this independent chapter in Shunji Hashiba’s (橋場 俊治) impressive culinary journey. After meticulous training at Sushi Kanesaka and years as Saito-san’s trusted deputy, Hashiba-san opened Sushi Shunji as a noren-wake, with his mentor’s full endorsement—a symbolic rite of passage in the sushi world. Now settled into the former home of three-Michelin-starred Kanda in Moto-Azabu, the relocation represents Hashiba-san’s evolution towards greater independence and creative control, positioning himself not merely as an echo of his teachers but as a distinct culinary voice.

Hashiba-san’s signature style revolves around ultra-fresh seafood, minimally aged to preserve natural vitality, often dramatically showcased live at the counter—reflecting his philosophy that each ingredient possesses a fleeting energy that must be captured and served promptly. The evening commenced fittingly with a warm and comforting bowl of aosa nori (あおさ海苔), endō mame (えんどう豆), and shin shōga (新生姜) broth, a subtle, fragrant introduction that set a gentle yet anticipatory tone for the precision-driven experience to follow.

A key highlight was observing Hashiba-san’s knife work, which is notably fluid and precise—a clear testament to his rigorous training and disciplined approach. Watching him deftly slice through pristine seafood was quietly mesmerising, an understated choreography of focus and elegance that set high expectations for each piece of nigiri.

The meal’s structure cleverly circumvented the conventional light-to-rich progression of sushi courses, instead deliberately interjecting contrasts in flavour and texture to maintain freshness and intrigue throughout. A standout piece was the sayori (細魚), exquisitely prepared to preserve its delicate, natural sweetness and accented with precisely calibrated touches of grated shōga and negi. This minimalist yet deliberate garnish highlighted Hashiba-san’s adeptness in elevating subtle flavours without overwhelming them.

Another remarkable dish was the kawahagi (皮剥), uniquely presented with its own rich liver sauce—an indulgent yet refined pairing that exemplified a nuanced understanding of how complementary textures and flavours can create memorable bites. Similarly impressive was the akagai (赤貝), meticulously scored and carefully prepared to enhance its characteristic briskness and crisp, oceanic bite, showcasing Hashiba-san’s deep appreciation for textural refinement.

Central to Hashiba-san’s culinary philosophy is his thoughtfully seasoned shari, employing red vinegar sparingly. Each grain retained a deliberate firmness with a delicate, restrained acidity, serving as an expertly balanced counterpart rather than overshadowing the neta. This meticulous approach to rice preparation reinforced the overall harmony and precision that Sushi Shunji embodies.

The meal included a celebrated uni maki (雲丹巻き), generously filled with premium Hokkaido bafun uni—luxurious, though not an overt demonstration of technique. More subtly impressive was the futomaki, skilfully constructed and filled with an elegant balance of kanpyō, cucumber, shiitake mushrooms, and sweet tamagoyaki. This classic yet thoughtfully composed dish underscored the understated craftsmanship that defines Hashiba-san’s culinary character.

Integral to the dining experience was the warm hospitality provided by Ayako-san, Hashiba-san’s wife and the restaurant’s dedicated sommelier. Her presence added a personal dimension to the meal, and her intuitive wine pairings—including a sophisticated and unexpected Burgundy red—demonstrated a refreshing willingness to explore beyond conventional sake pairings, enhancing and broadening the culinary narrative of the evening.

What distinguishes Sushi Shunji, ultimately, is its rare combination of exacting craftsmanship and quiet innovation. Hashiba-san expertly balances tradition and subtle creativity, shaping an experience that is both authentic to Edomae traditions yet distinctly personal. This seamless integration of precision technique, impeccable sourcing, thoughtful pacing, and genuine warmth places Sushi Shunji comfortably among Tokyo’s elite sushiyas—a fittingly confident next chapter for a chef who has stepped assuredly out of his mentor’s shadow into his own culinary spotlight. (Dinner Mar 2023)