Hoshigarei

Featured

Latest Posts

@hoshigarei

Writing about food that moves me: seasonal, subtle, intentional. A personal diary of exceptional restaurants and memorable bites.

Connect

Find me on Instagram and say hello.

Part 3: The menu continued seamlessly towards a crescendo—grilled shirako (白子) enhanced by crisp nori and vibrant sudachi, followed by a decidedly indulgent foie gras and dried persimmon monaka (最中), whimsically topped with whisky gelée. Each bite oscillated between sweet and savoury with measured precision, a mischievous nod perhaps to diners teetering between delight and decadence. Part 2: Indeed, what followed was a dazzling showcase of Shinohara-san’s prowess—the hassun (八寸), presented theatrically as lights dimmed, highlighting a delicate daikon lantern illuminating sakura branches, offered a clever nod to the Hanamatsuri (花祭り). Hidden within, a whimsically presented octopus tucked inside a painted hamaguri clam shell (蛤), its delicate vinegared sweetness counterbalanced masterfully by the gentle bitterness of perfectly blanched nanohana (菜の花). It was a composition as poetic as it was gastronomically pleasing—every bite unfolding like measured verses. Descending the discreet staircase into Ginza Shinohara (銀座 しのはら) felt rather like discovering a hidden chamber beneath Ginza’s glittering urban maze. This was my first visit, and immediately, a delicate hush enveloped the senses, inviting diners into a theatre of subtlety and meticulous refinement. Chef Takemasa Shinohara (篠原 武将), whose pedigree was sharpened under Kyoto’s renowned Kikunoi (菊乃井), clearly knows the nuances of a performance—not just culinary, but atmospheric. Happy 4th anniversary to Carlyle & Co., one of the best membership club in the world. Coming soon to Tokyo, New Mexico and Dubai! #carlyleandco 📍 Ryouriya Inaya | Kitashinchi, Osaka Part 3: The meal included a celebrated uni maki (雲丹巻き), generously filled with premium Hokkaido bafun uni—luxurious, though not an overt demonstration of technique. More subtly impressive was the futomaki, skilfully constructed and filled with an elegant balance of kanpyō, cucumber, shiitake mushrooms, and sweet tamagoyaki. This classic yet thoughtfully composed dish underscored the understated craftsmanship that defines Hashiba-san’s culinary character. Part 2: The meal’s structure cleverly circumvented the conventional light-to-rich progression of sushi courses, instead deliberately interjecting contrasts in flavour and texture to maintain freshness and intrigue throughout. A standout piece was the sayori (細魚), exquisitely prepared to preserve its delicate, natural sweetness and accented with precisely calibrated touches of grated shōga and negi. This minimalist yet deliberate garnish highlighted Hashiba-san’s adeptness in elevating subtle flavours without overwhelming them. Stepping into the newly relocated 鮨しゅんじ (Sushi Shunji), a tasteful display of white Phalaenopsis orchids from Takashi Saito marked this independent chapter in Shunji Hashiba's (橋場 俊治) impressive culinary journey. After meticulous training at Sushi Kanesaka and years as Saito-san’s trusted deputy, Hashiba-san opened Sushi Shunji as a noren-wake, with his mentor’s full endorsement—a symbolic rite of passage in the sushi world. Now settled into the former home of three-Michelin-starred Kanda in Moto-Azabu, the relocation represents Hashiba-san’s evolution towards greater independence and creative control, positioning himself not merely as an echo of his teachers but as a distinct culinary voice. Part 3: The rare inclusion of kujira (鯨, whale) nigiri sparked intrigue among diners. With a texture and deep umami reminiscent of lean beef, it provided an evocative nod to traditional Edomae sushi, stirring nostalgic murmurs among older patrons and curious excitement among those guests encountering it for the first time. Part 2: A notable outlier among the otsumami was the grilled Hokki-gai (北寄貝) and Aoyagi (青柳) clams on a skewer—a quirky and rustic presentation that evoked yakitori, offering smoky notes and contrasting textures. This unconventional approach was playful, adding a touch of whimsy to the evening. However it felt slightly odd as the taste relied heavily on reasoning and the result lacks a bit of refinement. Exceedingly impressive though, was the kuro-awabi (黒鮑, black abalone) otsumami, delicately steamed and served at an ideal temperature, resulting in a tender, buttery texture with a subtle but profound umami depth. Returning to Sushi Namba Hibiya (鮨なんば 日比谷) six months after lunch in April, one immediately appreciates the measured tempo of the dinner sitting. This evening, comfortably nestled at the main counter, allowed a deeper exploration of the nuances that chef Eishi Namba (難波英史) is revered for. This was my second pilgrimage to Namba-san's sushi shrine, tucked somewhat incongruously into the polished surroundings of Tokyo Midtown Hibiya—a sleek haven away from the charmingly battered sushi counters often romanticised by purists. Part 3: The maguro interlude brought dual delights: medium-fatty Chūtoro and lavish Ōtoro from Oma—each morsel a luxurious, melting affair. Particularly memorable was the almost wagyu-esque marbling of the Ōtoro, so extravagantly rich it felt nearly criminal. This was followed by a well-timed autumnal appearance of sanma (秋刀魚), robust yet delicately balanced by ginger and negi, embodying early autumn in one exquisite bite.

Recent posts